Rabbits and guinea pigs are generally very badly used in our society so we are very careful about rehoming them. Last year the RSPCA revealed that rabbits are the most commonly abused animals. Sadly many people don't think twice about confining them in a small box at the bottom of the garden where they get little chance at any sort of life other than one of suffering. Rabbits do not whimper and whine when neglected and so make it easy for their owners to abuse them.

Petshops do not help this state of affairs by selling hutches and cages that are far too small. People assume that because they are for sale, they are suitable. This is very far from the truth. Very very few hutches or cages for sale in petshops are fit for either rabbits or guinea pigs to live in. Even many of the larger rabbit hutches are too small for guinea pigs.

Now since the new duty of care placed on owners with the introduction of the new animal welfare bill owners are obliged to provide animals with accomodation that enables them to live as natural a life as possible with adequete space both for rest and activity. This accomodation must include an attached exercise area ather than rely on the owner to move the anumal to it. The animals must also have companionship of their own kind, suitable bedding and feed and access to veterinary care when needed.

Rehoming Procedure

The first step along the path to rehoming one of our animals is for you to come along and visit. We are open to the public on Saturday afternoons from 1pm until 3pm. If you absolutely can not get over to us during that time we may be able to give you an appointment at another time. This will however mean that getting all the other work here done will become that bit harder, so please only ask to come at another time if you are serious both about wanting to rehome and about the fact that you can not come on Saturday. In the winter in particular we are really pressed for time as much of the site does not have lighting and so with the short days we are in a race against time every day.

When you visit you can see both the animals available and examples of good accomodation. Often a first visit will let you gain ideas about accomodation that you can take away and put into practice. If you see a pair of animals, or a companion for one you already have, that you would like to rehome then, if you can get accomodation ready for them within a reasonable time, you can reserve them. This involves filling in an application form and leaving a deposit to hold the animal/s and book the homecheck. Once you have the accomodation ready then you can call our homechecker and make an appointment for her to visit you. Once you have passed the home check (which is to see that you accomodation is suitable) then if you have reserved a pair you can collect them. If you have reserved a single as a companion then the next step is to bring your animal to Hopper Haven for bonding.

Housing - Rabbits

We strongly reccomend housing rabbits in sheds with attached runs that people can walk into. Not only do the animals get a larger dry space to live in but cleaning out is far less taxing for the human. Bending over a rabbit hutch scraping out poo is not the worlds most pleasant task, and is not at all enjoyable with rain pouring down your back (and I should know:~). Also interacting with your rabbit when it lives in accomodation that you can't fit into is tricky as most rabbits do not like to be handled, but will happily interact with their hooman on their own terms. When you can go in and sit with them they will come to you and the interaction will be much nicer for both of you meaning that a closer relationship is possible.

If a shed is not possible then situating a hutch inside an aviary which can be partially or fully roofed is another option.

The minimum hutch size for rabbits is a 6ft long, 2ft deep and 2ft high hutch. Larger rabbits will need one larger, or better yet a shed. The hutch or shed must either have a run that is at least 6ft square permanently attached to it or be located inside a secure enclosure that is properly predator proof. For small rabbits this must have a top. To be considered predator proof the fencing must be solid or made of wire that is securely joined and will not unravel if one strand is broken. Chicken wire is NOT suitable. If there is no top the fencing needs to be at least 6ft high. Runs need to be situated on slabs or at least have the edges paved as predators get in as often by digging as climbing. The run should be a big as possible. Rabbts need as much exercise as a small dog and will be far healthier if they get it. Every penny spent on their accomodation will be paid back by savings in vet fees.

You can visit Hopper Haven and see rabbits living in a selection of large rabbit and human friendly housing. So before you purchase accomodation that you may well regret come along and get some ideas.

Keeping rabbits in the house is another possibility which gives you lots of opportunity to interact. However if you are going to keep house rabits you need to be prepared for lots of mess and destruction. Rabbits can fairly easily be litter trained - it is in their nature to just use one toileting area, but that is not the end of mess. Hay gets everywhere. Rabbits chew wires, they chew woodwork and they are talented wallpaper strippers. They will bite holes in your clothes, your furniture and your bedding. They will disconnect your telephone and your computer. They will nibble your books and refuse to accept that that is your piece of toast on that plate. They will eat many things that they ought not to and go through terrifying bouts of digestive stasis. You will hopefully be rewarded by gaining a delightful pair of companions that sit on your lap while you watch television (if it is still working!) and delight you with their acrobatics and make you draw breath and say ahhhhhhhh every time you catch sight of them looking so sweet while they take a break from destroying your home. If you are not too house proud this will be well worth it. But do consider the matter very very carefully before you opt to keep rabbits indoors. Do not feel that it is unfair to keep them outside. Rabbits are very happy outside. There is lots for them to watch and they are very well weatherproofed. The key for them where ever they are kept is having enough space, companionship and proper care.

Summary:

• Recommended : Shed with shelves and attached run.
• Minimum : 6ft by 2ft by 2ft hutch with attached 6ft by 6ft run.
• Indoors : Permanent access to at least one room, never shut in a cage.

Housing - Guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs get a rough deal in life, but we are determined that we will do well by the piggies that come to us. Most people want to give a good home to their guineas but unforunately most of the commercially available cages, hutches and runs are simply not fit for purpose, being far too small, and it can be hard for people to know what they do need. It is lovely to watch a happy guinea pig dashing about, simply enjoying moving about. They don't play with things but they do play, lots if they have the room. They run in circles and do little leaps into the air, generally known in the guinea pig world as 'popcorning'. When you see them do it you will understand why. They also like to just amble about, nose to the ground snuffling about looking for stray bits of food. This is a natural behaviour which gives the guinea pig great satisfaction, particularly when they find lots of tasty bits and pieces.

There are a number of ways to give guineas the space they need without spending huge amounts of money. They can live very happily on a shed floor with a small hutch or adapted box just as a hidey hole, or they can live indoors in a cage built from storage cubes or in a large dog crate which can be bought inexpensively from ebay and adapted to have several layers. They are also very handy to use as tables (at least if you can resist the temptation to stack them). If you aren't too fastidious they also can live very happily on the floor indoors leaving most of their mess in their hidey holes and strategicly placed trays. The messiest thing is the hay as it does seem to get everywhere - but then a tidier person than me might manage to keep it under better control;)

Guinea pigs must be indoors or at least in a shed for the winter. Our climate is to damp for them. This is one reason they are so prone to skin problems. Keeping them in a shed year round is a good option, with a run for the grass for the warmer weather. A shed floor provides a nice amount of space and makes interacting with your guinea pigs much easier than if they are in a hutch. Where children are concerned there is always the risk of them letting the piggie escape when fishng them out of a hutch. In a shed this is much less likely. Also the ease with which the children can interact with them will help hold their attention for longer. Children all too quickly loose interest in small creatures.

If you do opt for a hutch it needs to be large, at least 5ft by 2ft. You will also need a run of least 4ft square. We used to ask for the run to be attached but as the summers have been so wet we have decided that a larger hutch and a movable run is the better option. Wire on the run needs to be weld mesh that will not come unraveled rather than chicken wire that will give way once one strand is broken as it is only twisted together. Lids need to fasten securely. Guinea pigs should only be out in a run set on grass when someone is home as predators can gain access to them by digging.

As with rabbits, the bigger accomodation you can offer, the better. Guinea pigs will use as much space as you can give them. They move surprisingly fast and will happily make use of an enormous space. They just need a small warm space to snuggle up in a nice bundle of hay at night. Sadly letting them loose in the garden is not a good idea. They are too vulnerable to too many predators. Cats in particular get everywhere and are impossible to keep out. Free range in the house is a wonderful option and we have rehomed several lucky guinea pigs to live the free life. They are not as destructive as rabbits, and can not climb and get to things they shouldn't in the same way. They tend to lurk in dark corners so you can strategicly place trays of hay or towels to catch the mess. You do need to be careful when you open doors though.

Summary:

• Recommended : playhouse or shed floor
• Minimum : 5ft by 2ft hutch/cage and a 4ft by 4ft run
• Must be indoors or in a naturally lit shed between late Oct and April

Pets for children

Rabbits and guinea pigs are often thought of as children's pets. This is most unfortunate as rabbits are quite unsuitable in this role. Their powerful hindlegs and sharp teeth and claws makes them unsuitable for children to handle. Guinea pigs are easier for children to handle but they are delicate and children need supervision when picking them up.

We will rehome animals to be family pets but not just as pets for children. An adult is required to undertake their daily care and to supervise childrens interaction with them. Children can help of course, but they should not be expected to be responsible for the animal's well being. If the adult who will be in charge does not like the animals then the idea of having that animal is flawed. Our animals are looking for good homes. We are not here to supply people with pets, but to find those good homes. Living things are not the same as possessions and this is a far more important lesson for children to learn than any that parents might attempt to teach them by trying to teach them responsbility by getting an animal for them to care for.

Luckily many of the people who come to us for animals for their children are simply using the children as an excuse. They actually want the animal for themselves but sometimes feel strange for wanting a 'childrens' pet'. Never fear, rabbits and guinea pigs have many many adult fans, you are not alone! Really these delightful creatures are wasted on children.

This is not to say that children can not get alot of enjoyment and or learn from the experience of keeping rabbits or guinea pigs. A child that can accept that interaction needs to be on the animals terms and for the animal's benefit can get alot out of the experience. They can have grat fun building houses for them to play in, they can go fishing with carrots (my son's fav game:~). they can simply watch, and they can gently stroke the animal to gain their trust, which is rewarding in itself.

Bonding - Guinea Pigs

If you have come to Hopper Haven for a companion for your own guinea pig then before you take your new friend home we have to check that they get on and that no serious upset is going to result from their meeting.

As most of our focus at Hopper Haven is on rehoming our neutered males introductions are usually fairly smooth as introducing a neutered male to a female is usually straightforward. He will tell her she is gorgeous and she will agree and immediately set about training him to moderate his advances. Only occasionally will a sow reject her suitor and fly at him in a rage - I call this Ninja piggie!

Adding another female to an existing group is far trickier as the females are very hierarchical and have to establish a pecking order. As we usually get more males than females in we are not often ina position to rehome this way anyway.

As we neuter all our males we do not rehome males to live with males. Male guinea pigs remain agressive with eachother even after neutering. Pairing adults is very difficult and will only work if the boars are nice natured and laid back. More usually if you have a single male the thing to do in order to get him a partner would be either neuter him and get him a girly pig (he would def prefer this option, although as with any surgery there is a risk involved) or to find him a baby boar between 4 and 8 weeks old that he will hopefully mother and establish a good relationship with. Unfortunatly when the baby reaches adulthood he may not be happy for the older boar to remain boss and agression may occur. Due to the uncertainly involved in boar/boar pairings we opt to neuter and guarantee our boys can easily find new partners should they ever lose their first ones.

Bonding - Rabbits

We will do our best to find a partner that your rabbit will get on with ensuring that you do not take home a rabbit that you will end up having to keep separate or return. Rabbits can be fussy about their life partners and bonding can be difficult. The key to it is finding a compatible partner and doing it on neutral territory. The rabbits need to be supervised until they relax and are happy with eachother. We want to see them groom eachother before they go home with you so that their bond is solid enough to survive a return to territory that your rabbit regards as their own personal space.

Sometimes your first choice will not be to their liking, then we can try a different rabbit until we find a good match. We haven't yet found a rabbit we couldn't pair up.

We will do our best to ensure that the rabbits do not hurt eachother during the bonding process. They will be supervised, including at night, so that we can separate them if they become agressive. Of course there is still a risk that one will get biten as rabbits move exceedingly quickly and their teeth are sharp. You need to accept this risk. It is certainly in the best interst of the rabbits for them to have partners as rabbits are social animals that need companionship. They will spend most of their time together once bonded and will groom eachother and lie snuggled up in a heap. They help keep eachother occupied and warm and clean. Once you have seen a pair of bonded rabbits it is hard to contemplate keeping them alone. We do not persist in the bonding attempt if the rabbits are agressive towards eachother as we have enough other rabbits here that we can find one that will bond without things getting too exciting.

Rehoming agreement

When you rehome an animal from Hopper Haven and sign the adoption contract you are agreeing to certain terms and conditions:

• You agree to seek veterinary care when needed (we are always happy to do a health check for you if you are in doubt about whether it is necessary)
• You agree to keep rabbits vaccinated for both VHD(yearly) and Myxomatosis (6 monthly).
• You agree to find animals new companions if they are left alone for any reason.
• You agree to make sure their accomodation always reaches our minimum requirements.
• You agree not to breed from an animal adopted from us.
• You agree to return them to us, not pass them on elsewhere, if you are not able to keep them for any reason, or if you are not able to keep to the terms of the contract.